Restaurant News & Reviews

Top Dish: At Infusion Cuisine at Hinote’s Corner, linguine steals the show

Name: Infusion Cuisine.

Location: 6912 Hannegan Road near the intersection with East Pole Road, at Hinote’s Corner. Contact: 360-778-1726, Facebook and infusioncuisine.com.

The story of ... I admit that I’m leery of restaurants that dish up several different types of unrelated cuisines under one roof — what does the food taste like with no focus ? — but a friend had recommended Infusion Cuisine south of Lynden so I set aside my misgivings.

Eduardo Diego and wife Yesenia Pulido opened the restaurant in 2014 in this spot south of Lynden, offering Mexican, Italian and Asian dishes. The chef learned and honed his skills over 17 years in various restaurants in San Diego County and in Whatcom County.

They said at the time that they also wanted to offer variety because not that many restaurants were in the area.

Quick bite: I went in one day for an early dinner, hoping I wasn’t going to encounter a dizzying number of choices. But Infusion Cuisine’s dinner menu is compact, offering a handful of the most well-known dishes in a mini culinary tour of each cuisine.

I ordered the chicken piccata for $16.99.

I was partway through a New Yorker article, titled “The End of Food,” about a meal replacement drink called Soylent, when my dinner, smelling pleasingly of garlic and lemon, was placed on the table. What a shame meal replacement would be, I thought, as I bit into a thin slice of tender chicken breast. The chicken came with a wine sauce and was topped by capers and artichokes. Each rich bite was followed by a citrusy finish.

What wowed my taste buds, though, was the accompanying linguine dressed in hot olive oil and garlic with just the right kick from chili flakes. I would’ve been happy making a whole meal of it.

Side: I also tried the kung pao chicken for $14.99. It wasn’t spicy, which is the hallmark of the dish, though it did come with a side of Sambal Oelek ground fresh chili paste. Maybe Diego was catering to local taste preferences with the mild approach, but I would’ve liked the spiciness integrated into the dish.

Infusion’s version was made with chicken breasts, oyster sauce, soy sauce, garlic, bell pepper, cashews, broccoli, white onions and carrots. It was a balanced dish, offering up sweet, savory, salty and smoky flavors with each bite.

Ambiance: Casual and comfortable.

  Comments