Spring onions spring from the ground — somewhere — year-round. They offer a taste of fresh, of heat, of green — even in the months of stale, cold and white.
We slice them long into nested troughs. We cut them crosswise into pale crescents. We inhale and squint; it’s not the weepy drama of the mature onion, but the sharp sting of youth.
We pile the curls into a big green mound. This is no garnish, no sprinkle, no condiment. Here onion stars. Tossed with a spicy heap of ginger, a shot of vinegar and a shake of salt, the sauce flashes fresh and hot on the palate.
Spooned over noodles it’s a bowlful of bright. Just the thing to savor inside, when outside drifts drab and white.
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GINGER SCALLION NOODLES
Prep 30 minutes, cook 5 minutes. Adapted from “Momofuku” by David Chang and Peter Meehan.
6 ounces ramen noodles (or lo mein, rice noodles or Shanghai thick noodles)
6 tablespoons ginger scallion sauce (recipe follows)
1/4 cup of any/all/none of the following: sliced bamboo shoots, quick-pickled cucumbers, roasted cauliflower or any other vegetables you have on hand
Ginger scallion sauce: Toss together 2 1/2 cups thinly sliced scallions (white and green from 2 bunches), 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh ginger, 1/4 cup grapeseed or other neutral oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons light soy sauce, 3/4 teaspoon sherry vinegar and 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Let rest 15 minutes. Toss again. Makes 1 1/2 cups. Keeps nicely in the fridge, ready for noodle duty.
1. Boil: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in noodles. Cook tender. Drain.
2. Pile: Heap drained noodles in a bowl. Spoon on ginger scallion sauce. Add a heap or two of vegetables, if you like.
3. Serve: Dig in.
Makes 2 to 4 servings