Roots Island Red beer a disappointing mishmash of flavors

PETER JENSEN

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As further proof of my devotion to all things beer, I traveled to the heart of Oregon's booming wine country last weekend - and drank a microbrew.

My uncle owns a vineyard near Yamhill, and invited my family down to celebrate his daughter's marriage in June.

So I hopped in my car and cruised down Interstate 5, ostensibly to spend some quality time with my family.

That's true, of course, but I also wanted to try the Roots Brewing Company's Organic Island Red, which my uncle was providing as refreshment.

In retrospect, the family time made the drive worth it. The beer - less so.

The Portland-based brewery bills the Island Red as a "red stout." I like stouts and love red ales, so I was interested to see what the combination would taste like.

After drinking it, though, I had the impression the brewers just couldn't decide on what this beer was supposed to be.

The beer was a rusty red color when I poured it into a glass.

It had the hoppy, bitter flavor I associate with red ales, but that overpowered the creamy malt flavors of the stout and left a bit of a sour taste on the tongue.

It's a noble attempt at something new, but it needs a better balance of flavors. The mishmashed taste ruins the experiment.

The Island Red is made with organic hops, barley and oats. I've found it in 22-ounce bottles in Haggen grocery stores.