Whatcom Locavore: Tasty squash worth the effort to pierce the shell

FOR THE BELLINGHAM HERALDOctober 22, 2013 

22 Locavore Squash

The rich flavor and concentrated nutrition of winter squash seeds making cleaning and roasting them worth the effort.

JOAN GING — FOR THE BELLINGHAM HERALD Buy Photo

Fall is the time for ripening winter squash. Most people are familiar with acorn squash, pumpkins, and maybe delicata or hubbard varieties, but there are dozens of squash varieties available to grow.

They all have one thing in common - most have a very hard shell. The bigger the squash, the tougher the shell. As a result many cooks limit their culinary squash choices.

Delicata squash have a hard shell, but it's thin enough to peel with a vegetable peeler. Acorn squash shells are thicker, but they are small enough that a good whack with a sharp chef's knife will usually do the trick. Larger squash, such as hubbard, are sometimes available in grocery stores already chopped into manageable pieces.

If you want a real adventure, though, as well as a creative challenge, start with a large squash and try to figure out how to get to the delicious, creamy flesh inside.

I recently faced this dilemma when a friend gave me a large, beautiful blue Sweet Meat squash. It was about 18 to 20 inches across. I knew the flavor reward would be great if I could manage to get to the bright orange vegetable inside.

There are several squash-cracking techniques I've seen used before:

1. Some people start with a large, heavy knife, preferably a little thicker than most, and they use a hammer to pound the knife into the sides of the squash. Unless it's a particularly tough knife blade, it's a good way to break your knife.

2. Sometimes a squash can be microwaved for a few minutes to soften the shell. That's not possible with a very large squash, though.

3. Some use an axe. This takes some practice and skill to end up with chunks about the same size for cooking.

4. Others don't fool around. They throw finesse to the wind, and throw the squash out an upper story window onto a concrete or stone surface below, where it shatters into pieces.

Here's the technique I prefer. I use a Chinese chef knife, which is like a small cleaver. It's heavy and moderately thick. I start near the top stem and cut in about an inch deep (or as deep as I can safely cut by hand). Then I move the knife to the end of that first cut, and make another cut to lengthen the first. Gradually working around the squash, it eventually falls in half.

Once the squash is halved, I use a spoon to remove the seeds and stringy center. This time I saved the seeds for roasting (see the recipe below) and discarded the rest.

Cleaning the seeds can be a bit of a chore. They grow in little clumps, and I pinch them off one at a time like picking grapes. Then I put them in a colander and rinse well under cold water, rubbing the seeds together to remove the slippery juice. The rich flavor and concentrated nutrition makes the seeds worth the effort.

After I finished roasting the seeds, I turned up the oven to 350 degrees F. I roasted the two squash halves, cut sides down on a parchment covered baking sheet, for nearly an hour until the insides were soft and a bit could be easily scooped out with a fork.

At last the hard work was over. There were probably about 10 cups of sweet cooked squash that I scraped out of the two half shells. I put it in the refrigerator and sat down to think about how to I would use it.

First on my list was to add a little butter and honey, reheat some of the squash in the microwave, and serve it like mashed potatoes with dinner. It lived up to its name "Sweet Meat" and tasted hearty and sugary.

After that, part of it is destined to be made into a creamy and luscious fall soup. Some sautéed onions and garlic, a few fresh savory herbs, some homemade chicken stock and some heavy cream to finish will make a nice warm lunch after a cool afternoon stacking firewood outdoors.

I haven't decided yet how the last squash will be used. I could add some eggs and onion, and some crispy local bacon and grated cheese on the top and bake the squash as a casserole.

Or I could yield to my sweet tooth and made a spicy squash pie. Milk, butter, eggs, honey, and some fresh local ginger from Terra Verde, all poured into my mother's pie crust recipe, and heaven will be close at hand!

There are lots of other possibilities, too, but these are some of my favorites. They're all easily made with locally grown ingredients.

So be brave! Don't be daunted by the tough hide on those gorgeous winter squash that help make the fall season something to look forward to here in Whatcom County. Boldly hack your way in and win the tasty vegetable prize at the center. You'll be glad you did!

ROASTED SQUASH SEEDS RECIPE

Ingredients

Seeds from one Sweet Meat squash, cleaned (about 1 cup) (friend's garden, Lummi Island)

1 tablespoon butter (homemade with cream from Silver Springs Creamery, Lynden)

1 clove finely minced garlic (Boxx Berry Farm, Ferndale)

1/4 teaspoon dried basil (Sumas River Farm, Sumas)

Salt to taste

Directions

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.

Cover a baking pan with foil.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan or a microwave.

Pour butter over the squash seeds. Add the minced garlic and dried basil and stir well.

Spread the seeds in a single layer over the foil on the baking pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt.

Bake for 20-30 minutes until seeds are fragrant and lightly browned.

Serves 4.


LOCAVORE RESOURCES

You'll find Whatcom County foods at these stores and farms. Many outlets have seasonal hours. We recommend you call or check websites for current hours.

Acme Farms + Kitchen, 1313 N State Street, Bellingham

Appel Farms Cheese Shoppe, 6605 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-384-4996

Artisan Wine Gallery, 2072 Granger Way, Lummi Island; 360-758-2959

BelleWood Acres, 6140 Guide Meridian, Lynden; 360-318-7720

Bellingham Country Gardens (u-pick vegetables), 2838 East Kelly Road, Bellingham

Bellingham Farmers Market, Railroad at Chestnut; 360-647-2060

Boxx Berry Farm Store and u-pick, 6211 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-380-2699

Cloud Mountain Farm Nursery, 6906 Goodwin Road, Everson; 360-966-5859

Community Food Cooperative, 1220 N. Forest St. and 315 Westerly Road, Bellingham; 360-734-8158

Five Loaves Farm, 514 Liberty St., Lynden

Ferndale Public Market, Centennial Riverwalk, Ferndale; 360-410-7747

Grace Harbor Farms, 2347 Birch Bay Lynden Road, Custer; 360-366-4151

The Green Barn, 211 Birch Bay-Lynden Road, Lynden; 360-318-8869

Hopewell Farm, 3072 Massey Road, Everson; 360-927-8433

The Islander, 2106 S. Nugent Road, Lummi Island; 360-758-2190

Joe's Garden, 3110 Taylor Avenue, Bellingham, 360-671-7639

Lynden Farmers Market, Fourth and Front streets, Lynden

The Markets LLC, 1030 Lakeway, Bellingham; 8135 Birch Bay Square St., Blaine; 360-714-9797

Pleasant Valley Dairy, 6804 Kickerville Road, Ferndale; 360-366-5398

Red Barn Lavender Farm (egg CSA), 3106 Thornton Road, Ferndale; 360-393-7057

Small's Gardens, 6451 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-384-4637

Terra Organica, 1530 Cornwall Ave., Bellingham; 360-715-8020

Reach Whatcom Locavore columnist Nancy Ging at 360-758-2529 or nancy@whatcomlocavore.com. To follow her day- to-day locavore activities, go to Whatcom Locavore on Facebook or @whatcomlocavore on Twitter. For locavore menus, recipes and more resources, go to whatcomlocavore.com.

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