Whatcom Locavore: Jerky works as a tasty, high-protein treat

Published: October 9, 2012 

JOAN GING — COURTESY TO THE BELLINGHAM HERALD

When our family takes driving trips, we like to have snacks to munch on along the way when fueling stops and hunger pangs don't align. Beef jerky is a snack I grew up eating, and it's perfect for traveling.

It doesn't require refrigeration, is loaded with flavor, needs no preparation, and provides a long-lasting energy boost because it's mostly protein. Jerky also takes a lot of chewing, so a little lasts a long time.

Jerky is a good snack choice for hikers, skiers, backpackers, people who fish, and other outdoor enthusiasts. Since it's dried, it weighs relatively little and takes only a small amount of space. It can be broken into bits and used almost like dehydrated bacon in campfire or cook stove dishes, such as pasta. It punches up the flavor and adds protein and salt at the same time.

But here's the rub: Commercial jerky uses sodium nitrite as a preservative. Nitrite has been linked to the incidence of colon cancer and lung disease, although some recent findings contradict earlier studies.

Some people consider the amount of the chemical in jerky and other cured meats, such as bacon, hot dogs, hams, pastrami, corned beef, some sausages and some fish, insignificant. They argue that more dietary nitrites are created by the body itself from eating nitrates (with an "a") found in vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, celery and carrots, and even some (polluted) drinking water.

Some nitrates are converted to nitrites in the stomach during digestion, although most nitrates are passed naturally out of our systems within a few hours. There is even research suggesting that some nitrite is actually beneficial and necessary to good health.

Negative opinions on nitrites originated with studies in the 1970s that were highly publicized, perhaps prematurely. On the other hand, more recent more positive research is sometimes tainted with influence from corporate food interests.

Personally, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I try to limit my intake of nitrites as much as I can. I don't worry as much about nitrates, leaving it up to my body whether it converts them to nitrites for nutritional reasons or not.

As the saying goes, "your mileage may vary." I strongly encourage you to go online and decide for yourself, while being careful to consider the neutrality of information sources.

Sodium nitrite has been used to cure meats for many years. Pioneers used "curing salt" or "pink salt," which contains nitrites and is still commonly used today. It also gives cured meats their characteristic reddish color.

Nitrite is used for two reasons. First, it helps stop the growth of bacteria that can cause food poisoning (botulism). Second, the inhibition of bacterial growth extends the length of time the jerky can be stored without spoiling.

Instead of using nitrite, meat can be briefly precooked to a temperature of 160 degrees. That will kill bacteria (as well as any parasites, a concern especially if you are making jerky from wild game, such as venison). That can be accomplished easily by plunging thin meat strips (less than 1/4 inch thick) into a boiling brine marinade for a minute or two. The heat also drives the marinade flavor into the meat quickly, so marinating the raw meat for hours in the refrigerator isn't necessary.

If you want to make your own jerky from locally grown ingredients, it's important to start with a very lean cut of meat. You can use beef, pork or wild game, but poultry will yield an unpleasant texture, so it isn't used often. Fat can go rancid quickly, so leanness is important. If the meat you use contains marbling, it's best to store the finished jerky in the refrigerator and eat it within a couple of weeks.

Salt is the most important ingredient in the marinade, and it's important the ratio to the water is right. In fact, you can make jerky with nothing but salt and water, and your meat.

However, many other ingredients are typically used, such as herbs, cider or wine, all of which can be obtained from local ingredients. In the past, herbs were often used to add to salt's antimicrobial effects. Local herbs and spices with antimicrobial action include garlic, ginger, oregano, thyme, rosemary, cayenne pepper, horseradish, onion and celery. Any of these can work well in a jerky marinade.

While there are many methods for making jerky, I like the hot method described in the recipe below. It's quick, safe and has a traditional jerky flavor.

Cutting the meat thinly can be made easier by partially freezing the meat first. Also, if you don't have a dehydrator, you can use your oven set to 140 degrees, if you can, or to the lowest warming temperature. Just spread the strips of meat on cookie sheets that have been lightly oiled or covered with parchment to prevent sticking.

BEEF JERKY

Ingredients

2 cups water

1/2 cup of salt

1/4 cup honey (Red Barn Lavender, Ferndale)

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar (Bellewood Acres, Lynden)

1/8 teaspoon ground habanero pepper (friend's garden, Lummi Island)

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (home garden, Lummi Island)

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme (home garden, Lummi Island)

1 clove garlic, minced (Boxx Berry Farm, Ferndale)

2 tablespoon onion, minced (Full Bloom Farm, Lummi Island)

1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced (home garden, Lummi Island)

1/2 teaspoon fresh sage, minced (home garden, Lummi Island)

1 pound sirloin steak (or other lean cut of beef), cut into strips no more than 1/4 inch thick (Second Wind Farm, Everson)

Directions

Combine all of the ingredients except the beef in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil.

Put small amounts of the sliced beef into the hot marinade just until the color turns gray (1 to 2 minutes). Do not overcook.

Drain meat briefly on a towel, then place on dehydrator racks, being careful not to overlap meat strips.

Dehydrate at 140 degrees for 4 to 8 hours, or until a strip cracks when bent, but doesn't break in half.

Makes about 11/2 cups.


LOCAVORE RESOURCES

You'll find Whatcom County foods at these stores and farms. Many outlets have seasonal hours. We recommend you call or check websites for current hours.

Acme Farms + Kitchen

Appel Farms Cheese Shoppe, 6605 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-384-4996; appel-farms.com

Artisan Wine Gallery, 2072 Granger Way, Lummi Island; 360-758-2959; artisanwineclub.com

Bellingham Farmers Market, Railroad at Chestnut; 360-647-2060; bellinghamfarmers.org

Boxx Berry Farm Store and u-pick, 6211 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-380-2699; boxxberryfarm.com

Cloud Mountain Farm Nursery, 6906 Goodwin Road, Everson; 360-966-5859; cloudmountainfarm.com

Community Food Cooperative, 1220 N. Forest St. and 315 Westerly Road, Bellingham; 360-734-8158; communityfood.coop

Everybody's Store, 5465 Potter Road, Deming; 360-592-2297; everybodys.com

Ferndale Public Market, Centennial Riverwalk, Ferndale; 360-410-7747; ferndalepublicmarket.org

Grace Harbor Farms, 2347 Birch Bay Lynden Road, Custer; 360-366-4151; graceharborfarms.com

Green Barn, 8858 Guide Meridian, Lynden; 360-354-1008

Hopewell Farm, 3072 Massey Road, Everson; 360-927-8433

Lynden Farmers Market, 514 Liberty St., Lynden, fiveloavesfarm.blogspot.com

Pleasant Valley Dairy, 6804 Kickerville Road, Ferndale; 360-366-5398; facebook.com/pages/Pleasant-Valley-Dairy/161872142667

Red Barn Lavender Farm (egg CSA), 3106 Thornton Road, Ferndale; 360-393-7057

Small's Gardens, 6451 Northwest Road, Ferndale; 360-384-4637

The Islander, 2106 S. Nugent Road, Lummi Island; 360-758-2190; islandergrocery.com

The Markets LLC, 3125 Old Fairhaven Parkway and 1030 Lakeway, Bellingham; 8135 Birch Bay Square St., Blaine; 360-714-9797; themarketsllc.com

Terra Organica, 1530 Cornwall Ave., Bellingham; 360-715-8020; terra-organica.com

Reach NANCY GING at 360-758-2529 or nancy@whatcomlocavore.com. To follow her day- to-day locavore activities, "like" Whatcom Locavore on Facebook (facebook.com/whatcomlocavore) and "follow" on Twitter, @WhatcomLocavore. For locavore menus, recipes, and more resources, read her blog at at whatcomlocavore.com.

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