Entertainment - Dining

POSTED: Tuesday, Oct. 17, 2006

Nimbus may set a new standard

New tenant at Top of the Towers excels

05/25/2006 After about a month on the job, chef Josh Silverman is bringing a new level of sophistication to Bellingham dining at Nimbus.

Nimbus, open about three years at the top of Bellingham Towers, had already done much to banish the old reputation generated by its predecessors in this special location: splendid view, mediocre food. But Silverman is blasting right through the ceiling on expectations for this or any other local restaurant.

"I think we're definitely unique," said the 24-year-old graduate of Bellingham Technical College's culinary school. "We're trying to set a new standard for Bellingham."

He describes that standard as a more European-style restaurant experience, with smaller portions and more courses "instead of starch and vegetable and protein on the same plate."

Don't expect to be offered a choice of rice or potato with your main course. Mashed potatoes are $4 extra, as is a side of vegetables.

Silverman honed his approach during a recent stint at Earth & Ocean, an award-winning restaurant in the W Seattle hotel.

During our recent visit, the deft, subtle seasonings and stylish plates left us recalling meals at Fullers, the now-departed Mecca of fine dining in Seattle during the late '90s boom.

We started with scallop seviche ($8), and seared rare ahi with wasabi rice cake and coconut curry crème fraiche ($14.)

The seviche was about a half-cup of chopped shellfish blended with just the right amount of chopped fresh tomato, cilantro and finely minced jalapeno, garnished with French bread rounds and sticks of grilled cucumber. (Until that moment it would not have occurred to me to grill cucumber.) The ahi arrived cut into two generous pyramids. The accompaniments added some appropriate intrigue to the natural deliciousness of the fish itself.

Then, to test the craftsmanship of the kitchen, I ordered pan-seared wild king salmon with large-grained Israeli couscous, morel mushrooms and English pea foam ($28). Its preparers passed the test: The salmon was seared just enough to create a bit of crispy coating, while the inside had been cooked to that special moment when the fish flakes easily without a hint of dryness. As with the appetizer dishes, the seasonings managed to be both striking and subtle, and always appropriate to the main ingredient, the salmon itself.

We also enjoyed artichoke agnolotti ($22), half-moon pasta pillows prepared with lemon capers, white wine and a house-made ricotta, and grilled spring lamb loin ($30) with rhubarb chutney, curried lentils and lamb demi glace.

Silverman, who expects to purchase the restaurant along with a partner, is already working with local growers to supply his kitchen with fresh seasonal produce for a menu that will change each month. This weekend will be your last chance to sample the dishes mentioned above, but June should bring a new list of attractions.

A few years ago I might have said that Bellingham wasn't ready for this kind of dining experience. I would also have said that Bellingham Towers would always be the city's tallest building.

Today there are two taller downtown buildings on the drawing boards, and Nimbus appears to be thriving with an approach that once would have required a trip to Seattle.

"We've already seen repeat business in the past two weeks," Silverman said. "We're going to keep doing what we're doing."

ATA A GLANCE: NIMBUS