Entertainment - Dining

POSTED: Friday, Nov. 06, 2009

Prospect Street Café continues to shine

BELLINGHAM - When Prospect Street Café opened downtown more than two years ago, people were stopping me on the street to tell me I needed to review them right away.

After my first visit, I understood what the excitement was about, and my review gave what I thought was well-deserved lavish praise.

But I couldn't help wondering if the place could maintain such excellence for the long haul. A couple of weeks ago I sat down for another review meal here with some trepidation.

No worries. Chef and owner Spencer Santenello continues to deliver meals that are both creative and outrageously delicious.

The meal descriptions on the menu might tend toward the intimidating, for some. How about duck confit shepherd's pie with butternut squash, truffle potatoes and pumpkinseed brittle, alongside sliced duck breast with quince puree? My advice: Don't overthink this. Just order and enjoy. It's all going to taste great. At least we thought so.

The duck, in $17.95 or $27.95 portions, was pure delight. Each of the little accompanying touches-pumpkinseed brittle, quince puree-was delicious on its own, and all the pieces together added up to more than the sum of the parts.

A halibut special, $28.95, came wrapped in organic prosciutto with port reduction sauce, a ragout of corn and other vegetables, plus sweet corn flan, topped with crispy leeks.

Umpqua Valley lamb chops, $29.95, with white bean vegetable ragout, potato latke and lamb jus, were perfectly cooked, a shameless indulgence of a meal.

Like most fine restaurants these days, this place emphasizes fresh seasonal ingredients. A rich bowl of butternut squash soup, $6.95, was enlivened with lemongrass, coconut and pumpkin seeds. It made a fine prelude to the dinners.

Prospect Street Café is admittedly spendy if you get appetizers and full-size dinners plus wine. But the dinners are available in smaller, cheaper portions as well, if you want to experience food of this quality without going over $100 a couple.

One might think that a restaurant like this would have trouble finding customers amid the economic gloom, but on our Thursday night visit, most tables were occupied.

If you're ready for a splurge dinner, Prospect Street Café may be the best local option just now. When I spend this kind of money for a meal, it needs to be extra-special, and this place is just that.

PROSPECT STREET CAFÉ

Address: 114 Prospect St., Bellingham

Phone: 714-8262

Hours: Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m.

Price range: $15-30